Beer & breakfast at Freehouse

MICHAEL RIETMULDER | Updated 12/11/2013

The Freehouse merges growlers and pancakes in the North Loop.

At Freehouse in the North Loop, the bircher muesli is topped with strawberries, micro greens and Fruity Pebbles.
Richard Tsong-Taatarii

By Minneapolis beer standards, the North Loop is underserved. For all the neighborhood’s packed dining rooms and crowded cocktail dens, there’s really only one proper craft-beer destination. (Hi, Fulton.)

But Stephanie Shimp hopes to change that. While serving you pancakes.

With seven metro restaurants under their belt, Shimp and her Blue Plate Restaurant Co. are entering the beer-brewing game, and a new ’hood in the process. On Monday she plans to open the Freehouse brewpub at 701 Washington Av. N., offering growlers and daily breakfast.

“It was a random idea born out of Trampled by Turtles at Rock the Garden,” said Shimp.

Eighteen months ago, she was watching the Duluthian banjo-rousers at the Walker Art Center’s summer bash with Blue Plate partner (and ex-husband) David Burley, when a friend asked whether they had considered opening a brewpub (because, like, something about a microbrew trend). The query triggered an idea: a brewpub that emphasizes food as much as beer.

The restaurateur duo decided to merge beer and breakfast — a staple for Blue Plate, whose portfolio includes the Highland Grill in St. Paul and the Lowry and the Longfellow Grill in Minneapolis. They started hunting locations in the North Loop, which Shimp believes is also underserved in a.m. eats. Early this year they locked down a spot that was a warehouse for Loose-Wiles Biscuit Co. (later renamed Sunshine Biscuits) in the early 1900s.

Shimp and Burley intended to call their pub-n-grub joint Loose-Wiles Freehouse, but dropped “Loose-Wiles” after getting quizzical responses to the name. “Have you seen dogs give you that look like, ‘I know he said something, but I’m not sure what he said?’ ” Shimp joked.

Outside the 252-seat Freehouse, which will add another 100 or so patio seats by next summer, a massive silo serves as a not-so-subtle hint that this is an atypical Blue Plate project. After all, most neighborhood restaurants don’t need storage space for 72,000 pounds of grain.

“It’s probably the biggest piece of bling I’ll ever own,” said the Iowa-born Shimp.

After brewmaster Tim “Pio” Piotrowski, who came over from Rock Bottom Brewery, uses that grain to make his four mainstay brews and rotating seasonals, some of it will be recycled into chef Breck Lawrence’s dishes, including a hop hummus and brew-grain pancakes. Southern Wine and Spirits corporate mixologist Jeff Rogers, who designed the Lowry’s drinks list, consulted on the cocktail program, which includes a handful of beer cocktails.

The Freehouse will have an annual production capacity of 3,500 barrels, the state maximum for brewpubs. Its beers will be available in other Blue Plate restaurants by next spring.

Eventually the Freehouse will feature 10 of its own taps alongside 12 guest beers, but only a kolsch and a brown ale will be ready on opening day. Blame the federal government shutdown in October, which held up the Freehouse’s brewers’ application to the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. It was déjà vu for Shimp — Minnesota’s government shutdown in 2011 delayed the Lowry’s opening for three weeks.

“We were like, ‘Ugh, seriously?’ ” Shimp recalled, face-palming.

But next week Freehouse beer should be flowing in the North Loop like bitter rhetoric in our nation’s capital. Here’s hoping the beer will be easier to swallow.

Freehouse

Where: 701 Washington Av. N., Mpls.

Info: 612-339-7011 or www.freehousempls.com.