Restaurant Alma

Rating:

It's a restaurant critic's plight. When someone I'm meeting for the first time finds out about the unorthodox way in which I make my living, here's what invariably happens: My brain turns into a YouTube.com download. As the opening credits of "60 Minutes" flash the stopwatch's tick-tick-tick, I count down the seconds -- usually it's less than five -- before my newfound friend asks, "What's your favorite restaurant?"

I hate to disappoint my new pal, but the answer never waivers: I have not one but many, depending on both my mood and, more important, on who's going to pick up the check. There are, however, several spots that occupy a permanent berth on my hit parade. One of them is Restaurant Alma.

This seven-year-old restaurant, built by Alex Roberts and Jim Reininger, has always been a pleasure, but in the past two years their southeast Minneapolis bistro has bumped itself up to a new level of excellence.

Reininger, the restaurant's skilled baker and wine guru, has a distinguished résumé peppered with top-rated Twin Cities names, including ownership at the former Lowry's.

Chef Roberts got his start in the business at age 14, washing dishes. By the time he left for New York City in 1993, the South High School graduate had spent four years cooking for Reininger at Lowry's. After training at the French Culinary Institute and gaining a sweat-equity graduate degree in several bold-face-type Manhattan restaurants, Roberts returned to his hometown with a plan to open his own place. He reconnected with his friend-mentor Reininger, and in 1999 the two launched their remarkable partnership.

Read Full Review »