Zelo

Rating:

Zelo, a sophisticated new Italian cafe, is the latest entry in a very crowded field of upscale dining establishments on Nicollet Mall. The last two years have brought us Oceanaire, Aquavit, Merchants, the Local and (a short distance away) the Capitol Grille, all stylish and elegant venues where dinner for two can run into three figures.

Is there room for one more?

When it is this good-looking and this versatile, the answer is yes, there will always be room for Zelo. (OK, OK, they pronounce it Zay-lo, not Zell-o, but at least I tried.)

Zelo is the newest creation of Rick Webb, owner of the popular Ciao Bella in Bloomington. If the new venue looks and tastes familiar, that's because Webb's menu consultant on both restaurants is Rossana Bewick, who was also executive chef at the late lamented CocoLezzone. Sirny Architects and Duffy Design, who also designed Ciao Bella, have transformed the former Albrechts clothing store into a romantic cafe and bar with vaulted ceilings and a cosmopolitan feel.

The menu is compact but versatile, with options ranging from pizzas, pastas and salads to chicken, pork, beef and fresh fish specials. The lower-priced lunch menu omits the appetizers and most of the entrees, but adds panini and sandwiches.

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