Pagoda

Rating:

The 12-page menu has so many items — 249 and counting — that a diner could take the better part of year (or a critic could whack a significant chunk of his budget) to eat their way across its broad culinary swipes through Korea, Thailand, China, Indonesia, Malaysia and Japan. One lunch might be something as tame as moo goo gai pan or General Tso’s Chicken; the following dinner could mean a whole baked tilapia, pan-fried noodles with succulent duck and tart pickled vegetables, a zesty fried rice with mustard greens and dried shrimp or a clam congee.