Northeast Social

Rating:

The appeal of a toast cannot be overstated.

We were deep in conversation when the ting-ting of an unseen bell chimed through the house, setting a ritual into motion. The crowd at the Northeast Social quickly raised their glasses, and a two-word chorus -- how did people know what to say? -- rang through the house. "The Social," they said, and a lovely camaraderie hung in the air for a few moments before chatter resumed.

I loved it. In standoffish Minnesota -- this is the place, after all, where communal dining tables come to die -- connecting with strangers, even for a few seconds, is no small feat. "It's a way for us to interact with our guests," co-owner Sam Bonin later told me. "And a way to keep our team on their toes, to raise their morale, you know what I mean?"

Absolutely. While Bonin and co-owner Joe Wagner keep the front of the house humming, chef Edward Hayes Jr. and his crew are cooking an engaging, uncomplicated and value-conscious menu. I'm not surprised that one of the best dishes I tasted all summer came out of his kitchen. Its honesty and integrity set the tone for the entire single-page menu. The dish? A chicken breast, butchered with the wing connection still attached and roasted, skin-side down. What a treat, encountering plain-old chicken so indecently flavorful and juicy.

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