Anchor Fish & Chips

Rating:

What's to like about Anchor Fish & Chips? Just about everything.

Starting with its namesake dish. It's a generous slab of wild Alaskan cod, dipped in a delicate water-based batter and fried until an outer shell -- light, golden, gently crunchy and relatively grease-free -- forms a protective seal around the moist, succulent fish.

The slightest pressure from a fork breaks through that delicate crust, causing a clean-smelling steam to rise up, which tickles the nose and whets the appetite for the dense whitefish, which falls away in hefty chunks. Anyone raised on McDonald's abominable Filet-o-Fish sandwich -- present company included -- will find it a revelation. Each table comes authentically equipped with a bottle of white vinegar, and its bracing bite hits the spot.

The chips side of the equation is equally alluring: fabulous thick-cut, Minnesota-raised fried potatoes -- barely crisp on the outside, hot and tender on the inside. Order them with a side of the tangy, slightly sweet curry sauce, and you'll know what it is to encounter bar-food brilliance.

The pub is a partnership of first-time restaurateurs Kathryn Hayes, Luke Kyle and Jenny Crouser. That they met and became friends in a northeast Minneapolis bar speaks volumes about the Anchor's good vibrations. What I find particularly admirable about their venture is that it isn't trying to be anything other than exactly what it is, a low-key late-nighter where folks of all stripes can enjoy a cold beer, a plate of well-prepared bar fare and a dose of genuine hospitality, all at blue-collar prices. That's a business plan we can all stand behind.

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