VENUE DETAILS

Birchwood Cafe

Price:

$

Cuisine Type:

American, American casual, Vegetarian

Serves:

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

Rating: One Star One Star One Star No Star

REVIEW

By all logic, the kitchen at the Birchwood Cafe should be a disaster zone.

The cramped space, barely larger than a food truck, was designed to support a coffeehouse menu of scones and soups, not a crushing volume of customers and three full-out daily meals. Yet physical limitations don’t seem to get in the way of chef Marshall Paulsen.

“Anyone who sees our kitchen is amazed that we can do the menu that we do,” said owner Tracy Singleton. “I never thought of us as chef-driven, chef-identified, whatever the term is. But that’s one thing that Marshall has brought to us. He has put the food in the spotlight.”

It’s true. Now approaching its 18th year, the Birchwood has never tasted better.

Diners can set their calendars after eating Paulsen’s hyper-seasonal menu. Sweet corn lover? Paulsen inundates his dishes with the stuff in August and September, and then it disappears until the next year. Same with rhubarb, tomatoes, watercress and countless other vegetables and fruits. Right now, his abiding affection for the orange means a blood-orange gastrique here, a tangelo-cranberry jam there and vividly colored Minneola garnishes everywhere — and all fully exploited at their peak.

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Where:

Birchwood Cafe
3311 E. 25th St.
Minneapolis, MN
612-722-4474

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