VENUE DETAILS

Corner Table

Price:

Cuisine Type:

Serves:

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

REVIEW

Was it a random moment, or an act of kismet? When a charity event drew Nick and Chenny Rancone and Thomas and Lori Boemer out to dinner, the two couples found themselves seated at the same table. Less than a year later, the Rancones were the proud new proprietors of Corner Table, and Thomas Boemer, the very definition of a rising star, was running the kitchen.

That was 14 months ago, and the restaurant, once the platform for local foods luminary Scott Pampuch, has undergone an admirable transformation. The fever-pitch devotion to Minnesota- and Wisconsin-sourced ingredients seems to have cooled slightly — “seasonal” seems to have edged out “local” as the preferred mantra — and the Pampuch era’s casual, drop-in aura has gained a small amount of intimidation-free formality.

The cooking is certainly different; more refined, more adventurous and obviously a reflection of Boemer’s varied résumé, which includes stints at Hotel Sofitel in Bloomington, at Alain Ducasse’s high-end Mix in Las Vegas, as part of Pampuch’s crew, and as a cabinet- and furniture-maker. Although Minnesota-born, Boemer grew up in North Carolina, a biographical nugget that explains his menu’s occasional Southern accent.

His near-reverential approach to rice is one such trait. Specifically, risotto, with firm Carnaroli grains swept up into an alluring creaminess, a one-two textural epiphany the likes of which can only come from finesse and patience. It looks as good as it tastes, its pale spring-green loveliness radiating from a purée of freshly foraged ramps, their assertive bite mellowed by a long, slow simmer.

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