VENUE DETAILS

Corner Table

Price:

$$$$

Cuisine Type:

American, American contemporary

Serves:

Dinner

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

Rating: One Star One Star One Star Half Star No Star

REVIEW

I'm fairly certain that the tomato, a thin slice demurely tucked beneath a dainty pile of meticulously diced vegetables, was intended to be nothing more than a quiet grace note. But to my taste buds it was a triumphal fanfare.

Finally, here it was, the tomato that I impatiently wait for every summer, the one that spends weeks being pampered and coddled by sunshine and showers until it fairly bursts with a ripe, juicy shimmer, the one that puts all greenhouse wannabes to shame. That I was enjoying it at Corner Table came as no surprise, because chef/owner Scott Pampuch has a nose like a truffle-sniffing sow when it comes to finding worthy local ingredients. When Midwestern farms are harvesting like crazy, this is one place this diner definitely wants to be: front and center.

Like that night. We took a perch at the restaurant's short bar, ordered the tasting menu and watched chef de cuisine Lisa Hanson calmly work her considerable magic at the stove. Hiring her was the smartest move Pampuch has made, at least since he made the decision to go out on his own four years ago. She's got the goods -- and the big-league New York City résumé -- and together she and Pampuch are cooking with discernment and grace.

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