VENUE DETAILS

Heartland Restaurant and Farm Direct Market

Price:

Cuisine Type:

Serves:

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

No

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

No

Rating: No Star No Star No Star No Star

REVIEW

Lenny Russo's laugh makes me laugh. It's a guttural chuckle, slightly diabolical, streaked with a smidgen of self-satisfaction, as if he's amused by his own (often profoundly inappropriate) joke. Chances are, he probably is.

I say this because one of the many reasons to admire his relocated and slightly renamed Heartland Restaurant & Direct Market is that the Russo guffaw has more opportunity to really reverberate in the new, cavernous space.

But take one gander at the spotless workrooms, the spacious private dining areas, the three chef's tables, the long deli counter, the gleaming exhibition kitchen and the constantly-in-motion crew, and here's the message that echoes, loud and clear: A lasting commitment to locally raised foods built and supports this impressive enterprise.

The restaurant's menu, which changes daily, survived the move intact from the restaurant's original Mac-Groveland home. What's new is a spacious lounge that specializes in imaginative cocktails (made using -- what else? -- regionally sourced spirits) and a shop and deli. As a package, there's nothing else quite like it in the state.

The restaurant's diners and the market's shoppers clearly benefit from the years Russo has devoted to nurturing connections with family farms and small producers.

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