VENUE DETAILS

St. Paul Grill

Price:

$$$$

Cuisine Type:

American, American fine dining, Seafood, Steakhouse

Serves:

Lunch, Dinner, Late-night, Brunch

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

No

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

No

Rating: One Star One Star Half Star No Star No Star

REVIEW

The stately St. Paul Hotel is celebrating its centennial year, as good a reason as any to check in on its flagship restaurant. The St. Paul Grill isn't nearly as old its grande dame host -- the restaurant opened as a part of a 1990 addition -- but it feels as if it has been the center of certain overlapping St. Paul social circles for, well, forever.

Blame it on the setting. It's hard to imagine more timelessly good-looking surroundings, a combination of soaring ceilings, mahogany paneling, potted palms and richly patterned carpets that suggests a Polo Ralph Lauren retail outlet lurks just beyond the kitchen. Even better, enormous windows frame views of the hotel's flower-filled garden and beyond to Rice Park, the urbane town square that Minneapolis surely looks upon with unadulterated envy.

The enduringly clubby bar is similarly, almost absurdly handsome; it's the George Clooney of watering holes. It doesn't hurt that the Grill's owner, Morrissey Hospitality Cos., treats its premier property with the tender loving care it deserves. Try finding a scratch, dent or any other obvious sign of wear anywhere. It's immaculate, and one of those rare environments that actually improves with age while managing to remain ageless.

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