VENUE DETAILS

Salty Tart

Price:

$

Cuisine Type:

Bakery

Serves:

Breakfast, Lunch

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

No

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

No

Rating: One Star One Star One Star No Star

REVIEW

Michelle Gayer has a nickname for the extraordinary macaroons that fly out of the Salty Tart, her fantastic new bakery at the Midtown Global Market. She calls them "crackaroons," and it's not an exaggeration to say their highly addictive qualities qualify them for inclusion on the federal government's list of Schedule 1 narcotics. Those little golden haystacks are seriously fabulous. Each bite, one intense coconut blast after another, is better than the last, their chewy outsides collapsing into an ultra-moist, snowy white interior.

These triumphs of simplicity are the summit of Gayer's rustic aesthetic, one that is forged in the oven's searing rather than through the tip of an icing-filled pastry bag. Other, lesser bakers would succumb to the temptation to dip them in chocolate or otherwise embellish their auburn allure, but Gayer understands and appreciates the beauty of understatement. No running, no hiding, just a full-on celebration of the power and glory of coconut. That philosophy rules everything that comes out of Gayer's ovens.

I'd expect nothing less from someone with so enviable a résumé: Her decade-long stint as pastry chef at Chicago's stratospherically rated Charlie Trotter's came to an end when she was lured to Minneapolis with the prospect of running her own show at the Franklin Street Bakery. She left that gig in 2005 -- plunging her fans into despair -- and turned to teaching. She tiptoed back into restaurants last year, taking the pastry helm at La Belle Vie. In May she fulfilled her dream of owning her own bakery when she launched the Salty Tart.

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Where:

Salty Tart
920 E. Lake St.
Minneapolis, MN
612-874-9206

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