VENUE DETAILS

Faces Mears Park

Price:

Cuisine Type:

American, American casual

Serves:

Lunch, Dinner, Late-night

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

Handicap Accessible:

Yes

Outdoor Seating:

Yes

REVIEW

David Fhima is the face back in the spotlight at Faces Mears Park. He's remade his LoTo, the five-year-old bar-cafe-deli that, well, faces scenic Mears Park. Cher could learn a thing or two about comebacks from the resilient Fhima, a human Energizer Bunny whose name -- and face -- has been associated with so many restaurants that I wouldn't be surprised to find his resume immortalized as a Trivial Pursuit question. Reviving LoTo is a canny move. The airy, light-filled space always had pizazz, and it still does, thanks to a once-over by interior designer Billy Beson, who amusingly incorporates a few memorable fixtures plucked from the remnant pile of Fhima's failed Louis XIII. Fhima's menu feels designed to grab the attention of a wide swath of diners who either live in the neighborhood or are looking for a reason to drop into Lowertown. Residents will appreciate the convenient grab-and-go cheeses, meats, olives and house-baked breads and desserts, as well as the small wine shop. The main menu's format isn't breaking any new ground, but it covers a lot of aim-to-please bases: sandwiches, salads, a few house-made whole-wheat pastas, a half-dozen pizzas, a handful of familiar beef-chicken-fish entrees, plus starters small (olives with baguette) and large (prawns baked in puff pastry). Desserts include a selection of house-made ice creams and sorbets. The reasonable prices are a draw. Fhima is touting naturally and organically raised ingredients, although it's hard to know how pervasive that commitment is, and the medium-priced wine list places an emphasis on sustainable vineyard practices.

Reader Reviews