VENUE DETAILS

On's Kitchen

Price:

Cuisine Type:

Serves:

Handicap Accessible:

No

Outdoor Seating:

No

Handicap Accessible:

No

Outdoor Seating:

No

REVIEW

In our car-dependent landscape, no two words send a spasm of fear through a restaurateur's heart faster than road construction.

Due to the Central Corridor light-rail construction, navigating certain stretches of University Avenue in St. Paul and Minneapolis has quickly become world-class "Excedrin moment" territory. If the orange-cone landscape is an anywhere-but-here turnoff for drivers, imagine what the business owners must be thinking.

My pea-sized brain often turns to On Khumchaya. The On of On's Kitchen probably couldn't have picked a more challenging time to launch her restaurant, bravely situated a half-block west of the obstacle course known as the intersection of Snelling and University.

The Twin Cities area is blessed with plenty of Thai restaurants, but few possess the distinctive personality and heartfelt warmth of On's Kitchen.

By the way, that name is right on the money: Walk in the door and you'll find Khumchaya laboring away in her galley-style kitchen with the concentration of a diamond cutter. Only the very clueless would sit in her modest dining room and not be aware of her presence, whether it's the sounds of woks clanging in the open work space or the chef herself, gliding from stove to table, a glorious dish in her hands and an ever-present woven cap on her head.

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Where:

On's Kitchen
1613 W. University Av.
St. Paul, MN
651-644-1444

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