Best of 2008: Great plates of 2008
Beef tongue taco at Chef Shack
Chefs Lisa Carlson (Spoonriver) and Carrie Summer (Forepaugh's, Wayzata Eatery) turned Saturday mornings at the Mill City Farmers Market into a weekly don't-miss event, cranking out a dizzying variety of street foods made from local, sustainably raised ingredients. Tops on that list were phenomenal crisp-shelled tacos filled with tongue from grass-fed cattle.
Chicken Salad Sandwich at Rustica
Grab-and-go rose to a whole new level when Corner Table chef Scott Pampuch teamed up with the bread bakers at Rustica. The shaved pork and the naturally cured ham versions are definitely swoon-worthy, but nothing tops the disarmingly simple chicken salad. (816 W. 46th St., Mpls., 612-822-1119)
Hot chocolate at Kopplin's Coffee
Owner Andrew Kopplin treats coffee the way top chefs regard foie gras, and his intensely rich and flavorful hot chocolate reflects that same exacting mind-set, blending milk from a Wisconsin farmstead with single-source chocolate from Rogue Chocolatier, the quality-obsessed Minneapolis chocolate-maker. (490 Hamline Av. S., St. Paul, 651-698-0457)
Chicken soup at Meritage
Pristine chicken broth. Tiny, meticulously diced bits of carrot. Small snips of fresh dill. A pair of tender dumplings. Taken on their own, perfectly fine; put together by chef Russell Klein and the whole becomes priceless comfort food. (410 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-222-5670)
Pork dumplings at Obento-Ya Japanese Bistro
It turns out that a person can buy instant happiness. The price is $5.75, which covers a small plate of piping-hot dumplings filled with pork and shiitake mushrooms, each mouthful dancing with a sharp ginger bite. (1510 Como Av. SE., Mpls., 612-331-1432)
Lamb shank at Sanctuary
Chef Patrick Atanalian took the chill out of winter with a gargantuan lamb shank, braised overnight (until the succulent meat fell at the slightest pressure of a fork) and then glazed in a slow-burn ancho chile mole. (903 Washington Av. S., Mpls., 612-339-5058)
Charred Ahi Tuna at Porter & Frye
Leave it to chef Steven Brown to find harmonious unity in the disparate flavors and textures of gently seared yellowfin tuna, spicy grilled shishito peppers, tart preserved lemon and lime-scented salt. Wow. (1115 2nd Av. S., Mpls., 612-353-3502)
Pho at Ngon Vietnamese Bistro
Chef Hai Truong crafts the best version of this traditional beef noodle soup, no contest. (799 W. University Av., St. Paul, 651-222-3301)
Coconut Macaroons at Salty Tart
No distracting embellishment, no unnecessary ornamentation. That's the mantra of pastry chef Michelle Gayer, and it's fully embodied in her exquisite, golden-brown orbs of powerful coconut-ey goodness. (920 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-874-9206)
Sea bass at Cosmos
The definition of sublime: The beyond-moist fish was prepared confit-style, served over what appeared to be risotto but was actually shaved cauliflower and finished with a refined tomato broth. (601 N. 1st St., Mpls., 612-312-1168)
