Rochdale Farms' cheese factor
When the opportunity to sample the new line of Rochdale Farms cheeses came to Heavy Table, I was happy to take up my cheese knives for a round of taste testing. Created by K&K Creamery in Cashton, Wis., from the milk of more than 325 Amish farms in Wisconsin and Minnesota, the cheeses, along with hand-rolled butter, recently made their debut at local co-ops. While some are merely good -- organic alternatives to basic commodity cheese -- a few others could go head-to-head with similar European versions. Which ones are worth your money and tastebuds?
- Organic Colby-Jack ($8.79/lb.): The Colby-Jack begs for a football game. It's easy to picture it sliced on a tray along with a selection of deli meats or piled high on a turkey sandwich. Its salty bite may turn off the sodium-averse, but for those of us who crave that salty flavor, this cheese can be immensely satisfying.
- Artisan Aged Goat Cheese ($13.99/lb.): One bite will bring your tastebuds across the ocean to Europe, where top-notch goat cheeses can be found in France, Spain and Italy. Easy to pair with a big glass of red wine or a bunch of grapes, the goat cheese is zesty and salty without being too "goaty" (a common complaint among goat-cheese detractors).
- Cellar Aged Gouda ($15.99/lb.): Goudas are crowd-pleasers, and this version doesn't disappoint, although it's not quite as smooth as Prima Donna Gouda or other Dutch favorites. Aged for two years, the Gouda calls out for fruit -- juicy apples and pears -- to be munched in alternating bites. Granted, Gouda is delicious in cooked dishes, but it's also the quintessential table cheese, so don't bother doing any more to this cheese than slicing and enjoying.
- Alpine Reserve ($18.99/lb.): Of all the Rochdale Farms cheese, the Alpine Reserve stood out as the weakest. It wasn't bad by any means, but it had a grittiness that its floral flavor couldn't mask. Aged for three years, this cheese is described as similar to Emmenthaler or Comté but doesn't live up to the strengths of its European counterparts.
- Cave Aged Blue ($15.99/lb.): Yum. That's the best way to describe the Cave Aged Blue, found exclusively at local co-ops. Very creamy and sweet, this cheese would be all you need for a dessert course, along with some honey (local, of course) and toasted baguette slices. The blue taste isn't too strong for beginners but pleasing enough for aficionados, so it's an excellent choice if you have all kinds of cheese lovers at your table.
Rochdale Farms cheeses can be found at the Wedge, Seward Co-op Grocery and Deli, Linden Hills Co-op, Just Food Co-op, Mississippi Market, Lakewinds Natural Foods, Valley Natural Foods, Eastside Food Co-op and other co-ops throughout the Upper Midwest.
THE CHURN
- Minnesotans don't fear the winter, they embrace it. In that spirit, head on out to Midway Stadium on Saturday to catch the Crispin Iceball, pitting the St. Paul Saints against the St. Croix Base Ball Club. Tailgating -- and a tailgating contest judged by the Heavy Table -- starts at 11 a.m., so bring your grill, chef's hat, tongs and long underwear. First pitch at 1:30 p.m. Proceeds and donations collected during the game will benefit Second Harvest Heartland.
The Heavy Table team writes about food and drink in the Upper Midwest five days a week, twice a day, at www.heavytable.com.
