4601 Grand Av. S.
Minneapolis, MN
55419
612-824-4441
11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Fusion in an unlikely place posted by Vieno66 on May. 17, '07 at 8:41 PM
Hector and Erin, the owners of El Meson, have opened a new FA-B-U-L-O-U-S restaurant in an unlikely part of town, 46th & Grand, which means you can park easily and dine outside without all the traffic cacophony of other downtown, Uptown and midtown spots.
This new and already popular hangout, which opened May 4, melds Latin, French and Italian cuisines -- and does it well.
My attentive and friendly server convinced me to order the Conchas, scallops with a pomegranate plum sauce, julienned vegetables and a cauliflower and broccoli croquet. The scallops were amazing but the croquet (which I didn't eat) seemed an odd and heavy addition to an otherwise fresh and summery dish.
Ena occupies the old Grand Dairy (where Erin used to buy candy and pizzas as a child) and showcases the original wooden beams with additional arched woodwork giving the room a Latin feel. Contrasted by the hanging lights and pulled back curtains which also give the room a definite Italian feel.
I ended my experience with a lacklustre flan that didn't have nearly enough yummy caramel sauce for my taste.
But? I'll be back, many times most likely, to work my way through the menu.
Reservations recommended on the weekends; wine/beer only; open Mon.-Sun.
Rating: *****
Chef-owner Thom Pham's strikingly attractive pan-Asian enterprise shrewdly targets diners looking for fusion cuisine adapted to the Minnesota palate. The hyper-stylish Caterpillar Lounge pours an extensive list of cocktails and stocks a huge range of sakes. Anemonie, Pham's adjacent sushi and oyster bar, is Eat Street's first.
Chef-owner Isaac Becker does beautiful work with such high-brow fare as sea scallops with wild mushrooms and seared ahi tuna with chimichurri sauce. But don't miss his great takes on basic bar grub: the sweet-and-sour crab salad, cold cuts-pickles plate, bacon-harissa sandwich, the Twin Cities' best burger. Full menu served to 1 a.m. Monday-Saturday. The restaurant was the Star Tribune's 2005 restaurant of the year. Becker is a 2008 nominee for the James Beard Award's Best Chef: Midwest.
A lively neighborhood coffeehouse that moves far beyond double mocha lattes, cooking up a surprisingly large and varied menu of quick, fresh, creative fare. Breakfast, served all day, includes a fantastic oatmeal cooked in apple cider and loaded with wild rice, raisins, cranberries, pecans and pears poached in maple syrup. There are eggs, from hard-boiled to semi-scrambled (cleverly fluffed by the espresso machine's steamer), even paired with grilled slices of Minnesota's classic canned meat, Spam. A pair of busy waffle irons crank out crisp Belgian waffles along with an ingenious grilled-cheese sandwich made on a whole-grain bread and slathered with Dijon mustard. Other tasty sandwiches include meat loaf, tuna salad and a curried turkey salad. Pair any of them with the hearty vegetarian chili, a bowl of soup or a green salad. Sweets include a large stock of muffins, scones, doughnuts and outstanding cookies, along with sold-by-the-scoop ice cream by Sebastian Joe's.
A modern-day diner that serves breakfast all day - three-egg omelets, scrambles and pancakes - plus panini, soups and salads at lunch and dinner. The name is a play on the counter-service set-up - no waitresses - and a nod to the clever retro decor, which includes covers from the kind of tawdry dimestore-novels that could conceivably feature a hash-slinging gal gone bad.
Wine: Short selection, with a half-dozen offbeat beers.
Barbette focuses its considerable creative energies on incorporating local, seasonal, and organic ingredients into uncomplicated, classically satisfying bistro fare, served in quirky, vintage-store surroundings. The menu changes weekly. Recommended dishes: Amish chicken, pork tenderloin, Nicoise salad, steamed mussels, beet salad, croque monsieur, daily tartare, sweet and savory crepes, chocolate fondue. The late-night menu ranks as one of the best in town.
Wine list: Extraordinary collection of affordable, unusual labels.
A counter-service gem, the Birchwood serves inexpensive, mostly vegetarian fare, often made from locally raised ingredients. Breakfast includes crispy waffles, quiche, addictive cinnamon-raisin rolls and oatmeal. Lunch and dinner ranges from salads and sandwiches to more elaborate entrees. Homey, satisfying desserts include: Key lime pie, chocolate cream pie, layer cakes and big, chewy cookies. A short, cliche-free and value-priced wine roster bears the organic-biodynamic and fair-trade stamps of approval. Saturday night means two pizzas and a bottle of wine for $25.
A bakery and coffeehouse, with a focus on simple and lavish
versions of its namesake, it also features other sweets as well as soups and sandwiches, served in a fun, eclectic environment.
3338 University Av. SE.
Minneapolis, MN
612-378-4818
This modest storefront Latin bistro, with cozy romantic alcoves has been serving dishes such as arroz con pollo and carnitas con mofongo for nearly two decades. True to the flavors and spirit of Latin cuisines, but with updated techniques and presentation. Recommended dishes: Roasted pears, paella, red snapper. Wine list: Modestly priced bottles from Spain, Argentina and California, all half-price Sunday through Thursday.
The Twin Cities need more restaurants like First Course. Not
because the food is great - some of it is, and some of it isn't -
but because modest little cafes like First Course really add something to the quality of neighborhood life.
The lively menu tries to offer something for nearly everyone - from budget-priced pasta entrees to ambitious nightly specials such as veal scallopini, grilled salmon over ramen noodles or sea bass with a celery root sauce. The kids' menu offers a big selection, ranging from penne pasta with tomato basil sauce to chicken nuggets, corn dogs, or a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
Decor is courtesy of Home Depot: one wall is lined with
sheets of plywood sealed with urethane, while the other is simply painted with broad muted stripes of copper, red, yellow and green. Chef/co-owner Travis Metzger and a friend made the simple black tables themselves.
Wine list: Mostly California, reasonably priced, good selection
of wines by the glass.
Little neighborhood places like this modest little cafe add something to the quality of neighborhood life. American and Italian fare, wine list, romance-on-a-budget atmosphere.
At this non-traditional pizzeria, all the traditional toppings are available, including sausage, pepperoni, hamburger, peppers, onions and the like, but Galactic's long list of options also includes morel and shiitake mushrooms, wild rice, buffalo sausage, and for vegan customers, mock duck, nondairy mozzarella, and a range of sauces including tomato, ranch, barbecue, Thai peanut and garlic and olive oil.
The pizzas are better-than-average, especially the Thailander, topped with marinated chicken, green onions, shredded carrots and crushed peanuts. Hemp is prominently featured in several menu items, including the signature Galactic pizza, the hemp Caesar salad, the rasta pasta (penne noodles with broccoli, tomatoes and Parmesan) and chocolate-hemp brownies from the nearby French Meadow Bakery.
Many local restaurants support worthy causes, and a few make special efforts to support local farmers and
encourage sustainable agriculture, but Galactic Pizza takes social responsibility in the restaurant business to a whole other level. All of the energy used by the pizzeria is produced sustainably, and (weather permitting) deliveries are made using emission-free battery-powered Gizmo three wheelers, by delivery drivers outfitted in snappy jumpsuits with
matching capes. A dollar from every Second Harvest pizza (tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic and organic basil) sold is donated to that worthy organization's hunger relief efforts, while their CSA pizza comes topped with seasonal produce from a community supported agriculture farm share. Organic ingredients are used whenever possible.
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